Greek Influence on Birmingham, Alabama

Episode Transcript:

The American dream is one of opportunity that allows for aspirations to be achieved through hard work and commitment. Today we are taking a look at how that American dream was fulfilled by humble Greek immigrants in Birmingham, Alabama. Meet you at the table

I'm Lainie and I'm Laura Beth. And we are Steel Magnolias, the strength of steel. With the grace of a magnolia.

We are here to have uplifting conversations about life in the south. And we've got plenty of room at our table. So pull up a chair 

Hey, y'all, welcome to another episode of The Steel Magnolias podcast. We are so excited to spend some time with you. And we want to increase the table right, metaphorically speaking. So if you are enjoying this podcast, would you tell a friend? Text them right now. Send them a message through Instagram, Facebook, email them, send them a link. Yeah, just let them know. Hey, I love this podcast. I listen every week. I think you'd like it too…easy as that. 

That’s how I usually find podcasts. Absolutely. Yeah, I don't have a ton of podcasts I listen to regularly but the ones I love the most were mentioned and recommended by a friend that knows me. Yep. 

So alright, we have uncovered something new to us. Yeah, sometimes we like to think of ourselves as lifelong learners. Right. Right. And so we learned a little bit about the Greek influence in Birmingham on our recent trip there. So this was something that was brought up even as far back as episode or excuse me, season three, when we had some songwriters on Yeah, that was guys that were from Birmingham. They are regularly down here and just mentioned, there's a lot of Greek restaurants and Greek influence in the immigrations there..had, you know, the footprint that they've left… Yeah, maybe dig into that. So we did. And here we are. So yeah, I always find immigration stories interesting on how people, groups land in certain places. Right. And so yeah, with Birmingham, being a super fast growing city early on, right after the Civil War. Yeah, there was a lot of immigrants that came. And so I want to just read something, okay, here from a book that is particularly about one restaurant we’ll mention later, okay, but so the early influx of labor into the Birmingham area consisted primarily of former plantation workers looking for work, but the character of the faces and the names on the work rolls were rapidly changing. Immigrants from Europe saw the promise of a better life in the new world. And they began leaving their homelands for the economic opportunities that abounded in America. 

So after a war with Turkey had ended, I'm kind of paraphrasing here now, in the defeat of the Greek forces in 1897. There was a large number of Greek men who needed new opportunities. Correct. And so that kind of led to a huge influx of Greek immigrants into Ellis Island. Correct. Yeah. And then since Birmingham, just with that timing, Birmingham being a very up and coming place to do work, particularly if you were willing to work in the steel mills and coal mines. Yes, that was a place where a lot of them came. And apparently, they quickly found that they were actually better not working particularly in the steel mines, but serving food to those who were the workers. Exactly. Yes. Get back into your gift stream, right? Yeah. If you, if you've got this in your back pocket, you came from a place where I don't even think some of these restauranteurs were cooks or chefs themselves, per se, but they knew what their hospitality was. If they knew the need somebody needs a cold drink and a hot meal. Exactly. After a hard day's work. Yeah, yeah. So enter these smart, Greek restauranteurs. Yes. And so there are families that are still today, running restaurants with a Greek influence here in the city of Birmingham. And we actually have a link to an article that we're gonna share with you that if if this topic interests you, it was from Birmingham magazine, but it's a “Dive into Birmingham's Greek Restaurant Family Tree,” and it's quite lengthy. But if you want to know more about the particular families, the particular areas of Greece, they came from. Yeah. How they intermarried all that. You'll love this article. Yeah, yeah.

So should we talk about a couple of the places that we got to go? We actually went let's do alright. So as soon as we rolled into town, I mean, I'm not even kidding. We didn't even have a restroom break from Franklin to where we went, which was Niki's West. Yes. So it's just before we got really into Birmingham proper, and it is huge. I couldn’t believe how huge it was cafeteria style, very much a local hang in terms of I felt like if you didn't know where to go to get your silverware or that you didn't know that the bread was included. Like you should just know these things. Because the people that come there come there often are so frequent. Yeah. And we did a whole episode on Meat and 3’s. Yes, we did. And some of the things I want to say about Niki's West, I said in that episode, but I love a Meat and 3 place. Yes. Where you say, you know, steel workers and senators together eating next each other. They're like, that's just fun to me. So much intermingling. Yes. Classes. And you saw that there. Yeah. Yeah. But yeah, you're right. Meat and 3. Meat and 2. Yeah, Meat and 1 Maybe? I don't know. But what was the things that caught your eye? We saw.. Well, some good things. One thing that was interesting to me because this was our first stop. But I now know from even reading more about this topic, is a lot of these Greek restauranteurs didn't just open a Greek restaurant. They met the need of what the people wanted, which was hot meals. Meat and 3’s. Yeah. With a little Greek influence. Yes. So example at Niki’s… You had fried chicken. You had pork chops. But you also had Greek salmon? Yeah. Which is what we tried. Yeah, I was like Greek Style Salmon? Wonder what that is? Oh, my goodness so good. So good. And I feel like they have one other Greek style fish. Yes. It was tilapia. They did have cat fish. But it was just fried catfish. Yes. So to me, it was like they had a couple of Greek. Yeah. Influenced items on the menu. But it wasn't like a full blown Greek restaurant. Right? Yeah. So we made our way through the line. They seat you, which is kind of funny. It is because you would think like cafeteria style… You just go to an open table. But they it's like they're dressing it up a little bit. And they do have a server that you know, gets your drink. Yeah, make sure you got what you need. We tried some cabbage. That was delicious. We tried cornbread. That was delicious. fried green tomato. That was so good. Yeah, everything looked really good. Yeah. And I would say they probably have some real staple items. But I would say there's also some seasonality of what they're putting on the board. But yeah, and there was a lot of choices. Like I was shocked at how many choices because the place is huge, right? But yet everything looked really good. Yeah. Yep. So Niki's West has been serving Birmingham since 1957. 

Alright, so then we went over to another Greek run restaurant that's been around for even longer. Since 1907, The Bright Star restaurant in Bessemer, Alabama has been serving guests there. And we got to sit down actually and talk to some of the key staff there. So we're gonna be sharing a little bit of that later. But that was such a fun experience. What a cool spot, and it's, it really does feel like different restaurants as you walk through it. There's the main part. That's the original. Yeah, the 1907 restaurant. I think they even still call it that's the 1907 Yes, yes. And then the other sort of, they're not even I'm not gonna say side rooms because, it's quite large to 330 Is that what she said they can seat? 330.. massive restaurant and in addition to the dining rooms, they have those fun, private rooms. Oh, yeah. The Nick Saban room, the Bear Bryant room. Yeah, you can reserve a room like that if you want to. But it's like old school restaurants that used to have the little small. Yes. side room. Yeah. Where you would feel like the family club would be or Yeah, like, just Yeah, it was very, very cool, very old school. So the Brightstar has stayed in the family in this particular great family for so many, you know, this whole time. And we got to sit down with Stacey Craig, who is the niece of the two men who've been running it for decades. Yes, her mother is the sister of these two men who have been running it for decades. One of them passed away not too long ago. So she still has one uncle with his hands kind of in the business. But she's kind of next generation of running the show. And so we got to sit down with Stacey and then a very long time employee, Sonya Twitty. She was precious. So precious, full of good stories. I was so glad she was around. I didn't know that she'd get to join us. I was glad she did. And we even met a few other people who had been employees for 30 years. Oh, yeah. That's just so awesome to say, I asked one. Brenda, if this was her section that we were passing by, she said, Oh, no, I'm over on the other side when they decided to make a non smoking section. Which what year would that have been…years ago? I just decided to stay. So that's been her sections ever since. Yeah. Well, we got to sample some delicious food.. hear stories…And without further ado, let's just cut to some of those stories…

Taking a step back the the one of the partners til 1968.. his name was Gus Saras. And he was the chef and he came up with the original recipes for a Greek style snapper, Greek steak. A lot of the rest a lot of we still use we still use today came from him. But my grandfather and grandmother were mostly running the front of the house. And then Jimmy & Nicky, my uncle's never really were a chef. So Nicky goes back there and can do anything but he doesn't specialize in cooking. Okay. Yeah, but he can run a dishwasher. Yeah, yes. He specializes in people.

And they found recipes that work. Yeah, like, and they they stuck with that.. they stuck with what they knew worked, and what people wanted. And that's right. Which is good, what we call southern comfort foods.

Now, you've mentioned this to us, but I wanted our listeners to hear this is almost like two different restaurants in lunch versus dinner. Mm hmm. Tell us a little bit about that.

Yeah, it's lunch is Classic meat & three and evolves from that's what people ate. Traditionally back in the Gosh, 20’s 30’s and 40’s. And yeah, so that's it's a very we've kept that same still my favorite. Yes, that vegetables. Yeah. And selecting the snapper. Snapper are what we're a calling card is our fresh snapper. We're one of the few restaurants in Birmingham that brings in fresh snapper. And given our size we're bringing in twice a week and hand cut it on premises. So we have fresher fish, fresher snapper than most restaurants in the Gulf of Mexico. Wouldn’t you say Sonya? Yes.

That's amazing. They bring it up from the Gulf, dependent on volume …2 or 3 times a week. It comes in… you get these whole big beautiful red snappers. Wow. And we have what we call our fish processing room and Carl has been processing our fish for 40 years. Wow. And he can take that fish and he cuts it up. And it's never frozen. So it's always fresh. And you can tell..

And it makes a difference. It makes a huge difference. Yeah. Wow.

Talk to me about snapper throats. That's not something I'm familiar with.

Yes what you're having. That’s what we’re having?. That would be a signature dish. Yeah,

The snapper throats is a very interesting dish because not a lot of places you can go has snapper throats or has ever heard of snapper throats. As Stacey was saying, you know her grandparents they worked here during the Depression. And a lot of times they said they would work 24 hours a day.

They were at one time like in the 20’s.. they were open 24 hours.

So they was from the era that you used every part of everything.. you didn't waste anything. So when they got the fresh fish in Gus Saras figured out that meat was still white meat. It was juicy. It was delicious. So he learned to cut the snapper throat with not an actual throat. It's just near throat area, but it's all white meat. It's juicy. A lot of people say it's the very best part of the fish. Okay, and he developed how to take that and you can broil them Greek style. Delicious, delicious. Or fry them up and they just became a staple at The Bright Star. Definitely a thing signature dish. Yeah, that shows their commitment to us everything and not to waste. Yeah, yeah. And true. We also use fish in and out..

Once they've fillet the fish, they get the snapper throats out and then they use it for gumbo too

Always certain parts of the fish that you cannot fillet. Yeah, and certain parts that you can't use. And they will. That's what they use. They put it into our gumbo.

So nothing.

Nothing goes to waste. Yeah,

So the gumbo… gumbo would be in the dinner menu or you can get it at lunch. Okay. Or you can get it by the cup, by the bowl, half gallon gallon.

And what makes something Greek style? 

Greek Style … if you’re familiar with the Mediterranean type diet. Olive oil, salt, pepper, lemon, garlic, oregano, Like for instance, that's what's the Greek style. That's how it's prepared. And the tender loin is is the same way it's a marinaded..has a little Worcestershire sauce in it… It does … Olive oil base. Yeah, very healthy. So that's anything I always say it's olive oil, salt, pepper, lemon, lemon juice. Oregano. A garlic. A lot of garlic. Okay. Good for you too. Good for you too! 

And then dinner is more… Steaks.. and Seafood. Upscale. And that's just evolved. Yeah, I don't think that was the way … you can look at some old menus from the 50’s and see they.. they've always there was emphasized fish and fresh, fresh hand cut steaks. But yeah, yeah, we still cut our own steaks, right. In fact, the Alabama Cattlemen Association says it's the best steak in Alabama.

Now we're talking!

Yeah, that's a good stamp. The greek tenderloin is our most popular steak. Okay, and the way that it's cut, it's a ribeye split. And the way they cook it and marinate it, you literally can cut it with a fork,..melts in your mouth. 

You don't even a need a knife.

You guys are just washing forks back there.

That’s amazing.

I've almost been stabbed a couple times reaching for a plate with little pieces still left on it. 

Oh, yeah. And the marinades good. Lotta people love to use the bread and soak up that on the plate.

You’re in the south, you gotta sop up all that.

We don't let anything stay on the plate. Yeah. 

And a James Beard American Classic Award. 

Yeah, 2010. That's a big deal.

That was a very big deal. My mom and Jimmy, Nicki and I went to New York City. First and only time I've been on a red carpet, but it was pretty cool. Wow.

So cool. Was it a surprise? Did you like …how do they lead up to it? 

They just call the call. They said this is so and so I remember was Susan, somebody from the James Beard Foundation. And I took the call and I said, Oh, I didn't really know the significance of it. Yeah, we're here to tell you, you know, you've been nominated. You've won this. Well, you know, you've won this award as American Classic. And then we did our research and realized it was something to get excited. Yeah. 

So you remember your family was sitting in BB 1 and 2. And I answered the phone to start with and I was like…hmmmm, so I came back there and yeah. And you said, Well, I'll talk to them. And that's when she found out you know, better memory than me. Yeah. Yeah. It's good. And then your mom was like, Oh, my goodness. Is that for real?

Yeah, cuz you're always like skeptical….Do they want a donation ???

Are they wanting us to buy something?

I'll never forget the look on Jimmy and Nicki's face and Miss Helens also when they found out that they had won and they were going to New York. Jimmy was… I remember he called us all into a meeting and was just like, if it was not for the wonderful staff. Wow, that we could never have made this honor. And um, he was just extremely emotional, and thankful and grateful. And, you know, he was just very, that was one of the greatest things in his life.

Absolutely. Well, recognition. That right there tells me why the doors are still open. Because he were he started working full time here in 1960. And he worked until he passed away. Wow. So and so it's like a lifetime, almost like a Lifetime Achievement award, for both he and Nicki too. 

I think.. coming from humble roots, you know, because my grandparents had nothing. And they went through the Depression your parents, it's not just unique to them. But the depression was really a defining… coming from Greece, where they they were just no opportunity. You know, they could be farmers and raise goats but, and I have a lot of respect for that generation, particularly with the women of that generation, because both my father's side of the family is Greek too. But, you know, my grandmother left her home when she was 12 and didn't see her mother for 30 years. She left with her father… so then she worked as an au pair. Well, I just think about that. Gosh, what she did that so I could have this life? Yes. Yeah. And she really suffered for that. I mean, she was.. she had some, you know, she missed her mom. And I know she was she got older. She had some issues, emotional issues, you know, and a lot of those women did. So it really touches my heart. A lot. Yeah. Yeah, big sacrifice, but they're dire. I mean, this was back when the communists after World War Two, actually yeah, that's before World War Two. But this is just they just didn't have anything. Right. Was there any choice? It was a choice? Yeah. Yeah. So there was a lot of so much respect. And, and I appreciate anybody body like any immigrant because I know I'm supposed to it. Sure. To totally respect.

Meeting that American dream. It does take hardware. Yes, commitment. And it's just not easy. But I love hearing immigration stories. And the truth is, most of us came from immigrant family. Exactly. Yeah, that are here. It was really cool to get to hear about that one particular family and how.. Thank you Brightstar for having us…, yes, for how they've kept that going through the generations. 

So we hope you all enjoyed hearing at our table about The Bright Star and I just invite you if you find yourself driving through Bessemer, or on your way from Birmingham to Tuscaloosa make a stop at the table of The Bright Star. It will be a really fun experience. Culinary wise and just history wise, so true at this American Classic restaurants. 

So good, so good. And if you are in our Patreon community, if you're a patron with us and a supporter of this podcast, we are going to be giving you access to that full interview through this month's exclusive content. And I'm telling you they shared stories that were hilarious. They were pranks that Jimmy.. uncle Jimmy pulled and just stories that were really fun to pull out of the little vault of their memories. And I will say this if you are a lover of Greek food, so we've been discussing restaurants, even that are American or traditional in style that are influenced by Greek ownership. But I'm talking about just Greek food in general, that Mediterranean diet. There are restaurants that also have come out of Birmingham that are chains that may be in a neighborhood near you. So I'm talking about Zoe's Kitchen and Taziki’s Mediterranean cafe. Those are both out of Birmingham and could very well be accessible in your neighborhood. I personally love the lemon chicken soup that to Taziki’s makes. It is one of the most healing soups it's my go to anytime I'm feeling bad or anytime I'm taking soup to someone that isn't feeling well. I love the brothyness and just the lemon is so healing.. so can't say enough about how good Greek food is for us. 

I hope you guys have a great week. Lainie, Peace be with you. And also with y’all!